Why caulk baseboards

Disclosure: BobVila. You agree that BobVila. All rights reserved. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY. Need a hand? Receive free, no-commitment project estimates from qualified pros near you. Find Pros Now. While siliconized acrylic latex is slightly more expensive than straight acrylic latex caulk, many people find that it adheres better and creates a longer-lasting joint. Caulking is not meant to reinforce joints structurally, the way that construction adhesive does.

Instead, the purpose of caulk is to seal joints and block gaps through which air and moisture can pass. Because homes are in a constant state of expansion and contraction, you can expect caulked baseboard gaps to open up again over time.

Successful, longer-lasting caulk beads depend on clean, well-prepared surfaces. If caulking the tops of the baseboards, use a putty knife to scrape away dried paint or drywall compound from the wall and top of the baseboard. If caulking the bottoms, use the putty knife to scrape underneath the baseboards.

Use the shop vacuum to remove the remaining debris, then clean the joints with tri-sodium phosphate TSP or a mild detergent mixed with warm water. Let the areas dry thoroughly. This will protect the flooring from excess caulk. Mount a tube of paintable caulk in a caulk gun , then run a long, steady bead along the top joint, where the baseboard meets the wall. Immediately after applying the full bead across the wall, smooth the caulk by dipping your finger in a water bowl and running it along the wet bead.

Periodically rinse off your finger to remove excess caulk. Apply enough pressure to force the caulk into the gaps, but avoid the urge to overwork the caulk with your finger. A good caulk bead will have a slightly convex shape in the joint between the baseboard and wall. Inspect the caulk bead, and if any gaps remain, apply a small amount of additional caulk and smooth it with a wet finger. Repeat the process with the bottom joint, where the baseboard meets the floor.

Make sure to force caulk into the joint to fill the gaps. As the caulk begins to set up, carefully remove the painter's tape, which should give you a nice sharp line. Caulk may shrink slightly as it dries, sometimes creating pinhole-sized gaps. After the caulk has dried, examine it carefully and spot-fix any gaps in the caulk application.

Once the caulk dries, paint over the caulk bead to match the existing color. When your floor gets wet during cleaning or from a spill, the liquid can seep into an unprotected baseboard and cause mold and rot. Worse yet, the damage can creep up into the wall. Dirt and grime can accumulate in the gap at the bottom edge of the baseboard and eventually leave the floor looking grungy even after you mop. Caulk at the bottom of the baseboard reduces the risk of this happening.

Gaps and cracks around baseboards give insects an easy way into your walls where they can build nests and eat away at the structure of your home unseen. Caulk on both the top and bottom edge of the baseboards closes the gaps to keep the bugs out. Aesthetics are another good reason to caulk.

Painted baseboards without caulk often show visible gaps that suggest sloppy workmanship and leave the whole room looking rough. Caulk smooths the transition between the baseboard and surrounding surfaces for a more refined appearance.

Not all installers consider caulking a standard part of baseboard installation. Some installers caulk the bottom edge of the baseboards to reduce risk of water damage, but see caulking the top edge as an optional step for appearances only.

Paint also adds a certain amount of protection to this area.